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Five skincare ingredients for fall and winter

Posted on December 26, 2020 by Guest Contributor

This post was written by ScIU Social Media Intern Carly Jones.

Picture is a pipette with oil coming from it and a small gold spoon with shea butter on it, both placed on a background of lotion.
Moisturizing and hydrating ingredients such as plant oils from the dropper and shea butter on the spoon. Photo Credit: Carly Jones

Making sure your skin is properly hydrated and moisturized is essential for healthy skin. However, with Fall and Winter upon us, this weather can throw us off balance! We have all experienced that uncomfortable feeling when our lips are chapped, our cheeks are red, and our face feels tight or dry when walking through the blustery cold. With so many products on the market, it can be impossible to know what ingredients to look for. Depending on your skin’s needs, you may benefit more from certain ingredients over others. Some people suffer from dryness whereas others experience dehydration.

So what exactly is the difference between dry and dehydrated skin? Dry skin is characterized by the lack of natural oils on the surface of the skin and often appears red, flakey, or irritated. Someone with dry skin would benefit from ingredients that prevent trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). This is the process by which water leaves our skin, leaving it tight and dry. Normally our natural oils would combat this process, but dry skin does not produce enough to do so. 

Pictured is a diagram of the skin barrier. Water from the inner layer of skin goes through the skin barrier and travels to the skin’s surface level.
This demonstrates the process of Trans-Epidermal Water Loss or TWEL. Water leaves the skin by traveling through the skin barrier to the surface of the skin. Photo Credit: Carly Jones

To make up for this, occlusives are needed to keep the skin from becoming parched. Occlusives are substances that create a barrier on the skin; this barrier keeps hydration in and stops TEWL. Products that include plant oils such as squalane oil, jojoba oil, or coconut oil benefit dry skin. Unlike dry skin, dehydrated skin lacks sufficient water content (hydration) instead of natural oils. 

With dehydration, you may experience more oil production, itchiness, or exaggerated fine lines and wrinkles. To combat dehydration, the skin’s water content needs to be replenished with substances called humectants. Humectants work to draw water into the skin from the environment, slowing evaporation and hydrating the skin. Ingredients such as glycerin, hyaluronic acid or niacinamide have been shown to help with dehydration. 

Maintaining proper moisture levels in the skin comes from finding a balance between humectants and occlusives. Each person has a unique skin type, which means each person will have different needs when incorporating these types of ingredients. The environment can complicate things with wind, low humidity, and temperature. That is why knowing the proper ingredients can help combat the cold and dry Fall/Winter season! Some ingredients like ceramides and hyaluronic acid can be beneficial for both dehydrated and dry skin. Below, 5 ingredients are listed that help to balance your skin’s moisture, some of which are suitable for both dryness and dehydration! 

  1. Pictured are two, small bottles with pipettes containing clear and viscous liquids. The bottle on the right contains hyaluronic acid and the bottle on the left contains niacinamide.
    Hyaluronic and niacinamide are perfect ingredients for dehydrated skin. Hyaluronic acid (left) plumps the skin by bringing in water and Niacinamide resists dehydration (right). Photo Credit: Carly Jones

    Hyaluronic Acid – Both dry and dehydrated  

    1. This ingredient has stood the test of time and will help your skin feel more hydrated and supple. It works to replenish your skin by holding up to 1000x its weight moisture. 
  2. Ceramides – Both dry and dehydrated skin
    1. Ceramides are found naturally in our *skin’s moisture barrier, with a whopping 9 different forms! They protect your skin barrier and lock in moisture for preventing dryness and irritation. 
  3. Niacinamide –Dehydrated Skin
    1. Niacinamide is a superpower ingredient that not only helps combat pesky blackheads, but increases your skin’s moisture by resisting dehydration!
  4. Glycerin – Dehydrated Skin
    1. This ingredient serves to retain moisture and hydrate our skin. Glycerin has many benefits including protecting the moisture barrier against environmental pollutants and strengthening our barrier as well. 
  5. Plant or Nut Seed Oils – Dry Skin
    1. Ingredients such as shea butter, jojoba oil, squalane oil and coconut oil are great for dry skin. They help fortify the skin barrier and decrease trans-epidermal water loss. 
Picture is a dropper pipetting sqaulane oil from a small glass jar.
Squalane oil is an occlusive ingredient that is perfect for dry skin and helps maintain moisture. Photo Credit: Carly Jones

*The barrier formed by lipids on the top layer of our skin that is responsible for maintaining proper moisture and balance to our skin. When damaged our skin can no longer hold moisture and can cause dryness and dehydration issues.

References

Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils
Dehydrated skin and dry skin need different treatments
What is Dehydrated Skin & How to Choose the Best Products
Efficacy Evaluation of Unique Skincare Product Containing Pseudo-Ceramide for Fine Wrinkles in Japanese Female Atopic Dermatitis Patients
The Effect of Ceramide-Containing Skin Care Products on Eczema Resolution Duration
Mayo Clinic: Dry Skin
The 3-Day Inside Out Fix to Glowing, Hydrated Skin
Crowther, J. M., et al. “Measuring the effects of topical moisturizers on changes in stratum corneum thickness, water gradients and hydration in vivo.” British journal of Dermatology 159.3 (2008): 567-577.
Sethi, Anisha, et al. “Moisturizers: the slippery road.” Indian journal of dermatology 61.3 (2016): 279.

Edited by Vaishnavi Muralikrishnan and Evan Arnet

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Filed under: Cutting-Edge Science at IU, General ScienceTagged Chemistry, ingredients, Research, science communication, skin health

One Comment

  1. Mst Lisha Rahman Arohi June 4th, 2021

    First of all, thank you for your beautiful post. I have benefited a lot from reading your post. But I found a lot more information about the skin on a website. This information will play a big role in taking care of our skin.
    >>>>>> Skin Care Routine for Oily Skin
    >>>>>> Link: https://ourownhospital.org/skin-care-routine-for-oily-skin/
    Thanks

    Reply

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