Don’t tell me that LED’s don’t make EVERYTHING COOLER!!!
MakerPD
If you are going to do Maker Education / Maker Centered Learning Professional Development, you better have your learners making something. If the session is about pedagogy, I give them a bag/pile of craft stuff (pipe cleaners, straws, coffee stirrers, craft sticks, pom poms, buttons, googly eyes, index cards, colored pencils/crayons, tape, glue stick, hot glue guns) and ask them to “make something”. I will give them time to get going before I start the presentation or I might start the preso right away, depending on the amount of time we have.

People always come up with such individual and creative ideas, which is why I prefer that open ended prompt.


I try to talk with everyone about what they made and I do ask if anyone wants to share what they made and what significance it has to everybody.
We definitely talk about how they felt while making, since #MakerEd has many implications for social & emotional health.
Low Cost microbit kit
My goal was to assemble 10 micro:bit based robotics kits for around $100 each. I also wanted to show some variations of components, like 2 different motors and 3 different servos. There are no building parts in these kits, just components. Use cardboard, recyclables, craft stuff, laser cut or 3D printed parts, or LEGO’s you have.
(I have a spreadsheet of a larger variety of components to consider)
micro:bit ($18-20 bought as a 10 pack) https://www.adafruit.com/product/4833 or https://www.sparkfun.com/products/17290 )
Elecfreaks Wukong expansion board ($25) from https://www.amazon.com/Elecfreaks-microbit-Expansion-Adapter-Breakout/dp/B08KGGGQ5Z or https://www.elecfreaks.com/wukong-board-with-lego-holder-for-micro-bit.html
chosen for price, motor capability, rechargeable battery, 5V for servos, IIC , has neopixels
MOTORS (many options)
DC Motor Mini Electric Motor 1.5-3V 24000RPM ($1.75 (15 for $26))
https://www.amazon.com/EUDAX-Rectangular-Electric-24000RPM-Mounting/dp/B075TBWMQ8
typical motor found in science kits & inexpensive
DC Electric TT Prewired Gear Motor Wheel Kit 3-6V ($5.50 (4 for $11)) https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Prewired-Intelligent-Ardu-ino-Four-Wheel/dp/B098Q1BCX5
typical motor for robot kits
SERVOS (many options, variety of prices, degrees of rotation and torques)
Sparkleiot 360 Degree Continuous Rotation ($5.50 (4 for $22)) https://www.amazon.com/Sparkleiot-Continuous-kittenblock-Compatible-Blocks%EF%BC%88Pack/dp/B0B3RN7C64
inexpensive 360 continuous servo, to compare with motors
SG90 servo (180 degree) (labeled S51) ($4 (10 for $20)) https://www.amazon.com/Smraza-Helicopter-Airplane-Control-Arduino/dp/B07L2SF3R4
inexpensive servo
MG995 servo (180 degree) ($5 (4 pack $20)) https://www.amazon.com/Control-Angle180-Digital-Torque-Helicopter/dp/B07NQJ1VZ2
more expensive servo, also more powerful
30 mm Arcade buttons ($2 (10 pack $10)) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5DVINY
IR distance sensor ($2 (5 for $10)) https://www.amazon.com/Gikfun-avoidance-Reflective-Photoelectric-Intensity/dp/B07FJLMLVZ
HCSR04 ultrasonic distance sensor ($2 (5 for $10)) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01COSN7O6
OLED 0.96” IIC 128×64 ($3 (5 for $15)) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09C5K91H7
need a display, this gives nice variety
10k Potentiometer (dials) ($1.50 (30 for $15)) https://www.amazon.com/Taiss-Potentiometer-Control-Plastic-Terminals/dp/B0B8Y8TMWJ
3 to be able control RGB input values to the LED/neopixel strips
Large 5V LED/neopixels ($1.50 (strand 50 for $15)) https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-LED-Individually-Addressable-Waterproof/dp/B01AG923GI?th=1
Small neopixels ($1.60 (strand 150 for $16)) https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-Individual-Addressable-150Pixels-Non-Waterproof/dp/B088BB8WTZ?th=1
WIRES
The wires you need depend on the expansion board and components.
You can never have too many wires… (get more because they disappear easily)
There are 6 different to choose from :
gator to gator
gator to socket
gator to pin (I can only find gator to pin & gator to socket as a package)
pin to pin
socket to socket
pin to socket (these last 3 can be bought as a combo pack or single style)
Gator to pin/gator to socket (4 each) ($3.20 (20 for $8)) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WBWT8CF
20 cm socket to socket (12) ($0.84 (120 for $8)) https://www.amazon.com/EDGELEC-Breadboard-Optional-Assorted-Multicolored/dp/B07GCY6CH7?th=1
20 cm socket to pin (4) ($0.28 (120 for $8)) https://www.amazon.com/EDGELEC-Breadboard-Optional-Assorted-Multicolored/dp/B07GD1TFBR?th=1
All of this fits in a 7”x6”x3” box ($0.90 (25 for $22)) https://www.amazon.com/25%EF%BC%8CLivejun-Corrugated-Cardboard-Packaging-Shipping%EF%BC%8CBoxes/dp/B0BRXNGQD7
Total cost per kit (excluding shipping) $85.57
And these boxes fit in a Cricut bag ($32 ($16 each)) https://www.amazon.com/Carrying-Compatible-Cricut-Explore-Supplies/dp/B07VFBKYZM
(it takes 2 bags for 10 kits, with some extra room for “spare parts”)
(so we should add $3.20 to the price of each kit — $88.77)
There are many companies that have assembled their own kits.
Some companies to look at if you want to just purchase a kit
(some are British, since the micro:bit is a BBC project ; some are Chinese since they often have the lowest prices ; some are distributor sites)
https://www.keyestudio.com/collections/microbit-375
https://www.sparkfun.com/microbit
https://www.elecfreaks.com/micro-bit/kits.html
https://kitronik.co.uk/collections/microbit-and-accessories
https://stemeducationworks.com/microbit-kits/
https://thepihut.com/collections/micro-bit-kits-bundles
https://www.dfrobot.com/topic-281-140.html
https://www.kittenbot.cc/collections/all/microbit?page=1
As always, there is Amazon for window shopping
Next step for me is making a label for what is in the box and videos of how to code each component in makecode
Iteration
I have been working on having something to make for the Grocery Getter Nation event at Wagler Motorsports Park the last weekend in July. Maybe a dragster shaped keychain, maybe personalized, maybe an ornament…but I also want to get their logo on it. Those ideas are too small for the logo to come out well, so I decided to go with a stand alone ornament of their logo.

I started out big (5″) to see how it show sup, then went a little smaller along with changing the “GGN” on the hat to a single line font. Next, I went to 3″ and the small block letters and waves in the girls hair dont come out well – so I did more editing. I changed the block to single line and replaced the waves with single lines. Next up, try it on MDF (this is baltic birch, which sometimes warps).

I think this will work
Now to work on the dragster cutout for personalization.
Then my toy car for drag racing – with the option of wheel size
Crawford4H
Last week we went to Crawford County for one night of their 4H Fair to have some #STEM stuff for people to see and do. We had a 3D printer printing out a small gnome and the laser cutter working on a variety of trinkets that we left for people.
We also had some things to really play with.
We had CR2032 batteries and 5 mm LED’s to try to light up.
These could be partnered with the spring themed coloring pages we had out.
There were coffee stirrers and pipe cleaners to build with.
We had some small chunks of PVC pipe and an assortment of connectors to build “something”.
We had a table full of plus-plus to build with
There was a table with laser cut house parts to put together, as well as some craft stuff to bling the house (buttons, pompoms, straws, pipe cleaners, googly eyes)
Last but not least, we had stomp rockets
There were about 50 people that stopped by to chat and a dozen younger kids that actively worked the tables.


I would like to add circuit blocks and string art and pop bottle rockets to out repertoire.
toy car dragster
where am I after a day of iterations…
(everything starts with your motors….dimensions & power requirements)
{it does work on linoleum and low plush carpet…It definitely has an ramp up of speed as it gets going. https://youtu.be/2CIcVGoaL1M https://youtu.be/UfN0g6KKDAA }
Chassis :
I adjusted the holes around the motor so that I could use a 3D printed motor holder. Tie wraps & hot glue are not a permanent solution. I decided to NOT etch out (engrave) a recessed area for the motor. Though I did score where they go. I moved the battery forward to leave more room for 3D printed motor holders….though I didnt need to move it that far. Battery is crooked because I had already cut the wires to length for original location. I put some holes in the front for a way to mount something to hold front axle. I was thinking eye screws. I ended up laser cutting an “eye screw” then sanding the square peg to fit in the round hole.
I used 3 mm holes on everything – thinking 3 mm nylon screws. We happen to have 4-40 1/2″ screws in the space (& associated nut) – they work fine. (1 car uses 20 screws/nuts)
You need tiny screwdrivers!
chassis file https://cuttle.xyz/@makervan/chassis2-bhz9x7RKoMmE
eye screw file https://cuttle.xyz/@makervan/front-axle-holder-GSPl5oJQuaNE
make the hole to fit your axle. I have the eye screw lines 2 different colors so I can cut the hole first.
the rectangle is 3 mm wide (& cut out on 3 mm draft board)
I was going to use skewers for the front axle…but they all seemed to have a bend. 1/4″ dowel might be best unless you have some metal rods…like we do. We have some Aluminum rods for welding that are slightly smaller than skewers.
Motor holder :
I made the shape of the hole in cuttle, imported that svg into tinkercad and cut it out of a rectangle. I also made the base with the screw holes in cuttle and sent that to tinkercad.
The hole is a combo of 1 circle and 2 rectangles.
motor mount hole file https://cuttle.xyz/@makervan/motor-mount-hole-2-RilzLnXM1a7f
motor mount base file https://cuttle.xyz/@makervan/motor-mount-holes-32mm-i6MqVep4HHbI
the first one i didnt make the hole the “perfect shape”, the screw holes where too close to the wall & the edge.
motor mount file https://www.tinkercad.com/things/63ymrXdISZf
Wheels :
Various size circles with 3 mm holes cut out to attach to hubs.
wheel file https://cuttle.xyz/@makervan/wheel-v40-VzRj8F9gNazm
For the hubs, I used that file and shrunk the outer circle to a 25 mm diameter, then took that file over to tinkercad. I added a cylinder with a hole. The motor has a 2 mm nub, but the hole ended up being 2.4 mm. For my front wheels, I made the hole 4.2 mm. Since i switched to Al rods, I had to use some tape to get them snug in the holes… settle on the front axle then make the hubs. We could probably get away with only 3 screw holes.
hub to fit 2 mm motor nub https://www.tinkercad.com/things/fSIMy9KTR5p
hub to fit skewer/Al rod https://www.tinkercad.com/things/4q3u6Kg8L2Y
CAUTIONS !!!
every printer prints a little differently (tolerances), and we are looking at holes that are in the millimeters. Even my 2 Ultimakers2+ printed the holes slightly differently. I wonder what the vans Prusa’s will do with those files…
Tinkercad does not import correct size from cuttle svg… I had to import at 35.3% (about there) to get things the correct size
CONSIDERATIONS :
It is 10 cm wide, it could be 9 or 8. The battery pack needs to fit.
It is 13 cm long….again battery pack fit and do you want to add weight to car as an experiment.
We could use Lego Technic connectors to attach wheels to hubs. That requires a different size hole (~4.7 mm)
higher torque motors – these start very slowly but do get going
what to wrap around wheels to get better traction
DIYtoyDragsters
before I get too far into iterations and troubleshooting…
Because I am doing a Family Night at a racetrack for a local non-profit, I thought to make a couple of toy dragsters with interchangeable wheels for kids to experiment with {change wheel size, change weight…}
I am thinking acrylic or wood for some parts and PLA for others.
Chassis :
laser cut wood or acrylic, it is about “adult “hand size
the gray areas I am thinking to etch a recessed spot to help hold motors, holes are for tie wraps to really hold motors (so this depends on size of your motor)
https://cuttle.xyz/@makervan/chassis1-Ab651LBLWVwu
I am thinking a hole towards the back for a switch to turn motors on/off.
Also some holes for tie wraps to keep a battery pack in place (3 – 1.5 V).
What batteries depend on your motor. I could use 2 – 1.5 v up to a 9 V with mine.
Watch batteries do not work – I assume not enough current.
Not sure how I am attaching front wheels… maybe eye screws big enough to hold a skewer/dowel rod. So I would want some holes towards the front smaller than the screw.
Wheel hub :
Partially designed in cuttle because they have that “rotational repeat” and I want 4 screw holes to attach wheels. It is 25 mm in diameter and I am thinking 3 mm holes for M3 screws (i found some #4-40 screws in our space that fit) (https://cuttle.xyz/@makervan/wheel-hub-5xzTCyCGPZTi )
Then I take that svg into tinkercad to add the nub that will attach to the motor. Nub is 5.5 mm in diameter, 10 mm tall, with a hole that is 2 mm in diameter and 8 mm deep.
(https://www.tinkercad.com/things/iVyNuqqOpj4-fantastic-hango/edit?sharecode=c-RS1YTB7irArdffkh2cD6OsmLTZN2UcbEMm39TKaUM )
I made one hub that is 2 mm thick and one that is 3 mm thick. Combined they took 18 minutes to print.
This import into Tinkercad is where I ran into trouble…it doesnt come in at 25 mm, it comes in around 70 mm. So for one of them i just shrank it down to 25 mm on the work plane, for the other I imported at 35.7%. The screw holes were slightly smaller in the one I shrank on the work plane.
The problem I do have is the 2 mm hole is too small for the motor spindle. “Easy” fix, T&E til I get the right size that fits.
Wheels :
I copied the hub design in cuttle and made the outer circle larger, this time 40 mm.
I laser cut them out of acrylic and wood.
2 wheels takes 35 seconds
I need to be careful about screw length so that they dont hit the motor.
But I might want a few different lengths in case someone wants “fat tires” (multiple layers).
NEXT STEPS
– get the nub to fit on the motor spindle
– front wheels (thinking similar but skewer will need diff size hole)
i could glue a coffee stirrer or straw on and run the axle through that instead of eye screws
– battery pack & switch (in the mail)
-make 3 cars
-multiple wheel size options
This could be a good purchase for components to get started
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GPPJR1T
UPDATE
motor hub… hole needed to be 2.4 mm. decided on 2 mm thick. looked at 1 mm and thought too flimsy. Though it takes 5 mins to print 1 mm version and 8 min to print 2 mm version
{ https://www.tinkercad.com/things/fSIMy9KTR5p }
For the front wheels if I use a skewer, the hole needs to be 4.2 mm diameter (& still 8 mm tall ; the nub is 8 mm diameter x 10 mm tall – on a circular base 25 mm x 2 mm with 3 mm holes)
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/4q3u6Kg8L2Y-wheelhub4point2mmhole
Anyone have a “better” way to attach instead of tiny screws…those are tough for my fingers??
A thought came to me about using Lego Technic connectors…I tested on laser and a 4.7 mm hole fits nicely…but 3D printed it was too small. So 4.8 mm (and 2 diff printers printed same file slightly differently – hole not exactly the same)
there is a little gap between hub & wheel because of the design of the connector.
Each side of the connector is ~ 5mm and we are not filling it up here…issue?
Be sure both sides are seated against the middle or will have wobbly wheels.
It takes some force to put the wheel on & take it off – not sure that will be possible with hub on the motor…or will kids just take hub off the motor to switch wheels??
AnodizedAluminum
A colleague asked if you could laser a functional QR code onto anodized aluminum. I replied yes, even though I had not done that before. I remember seeing people talk about doing it. So i ordered some blanks, 10 business card size for $10 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08H752BRS ). I did a little research and found a variety of ideas, but consensus was slow speed (100-200 on Glowforge), medium power and 340 lines per inch. Monday was the test run. I did a set of text at 100 speed, varying the power for each line. Then did some at 200 speed. I put a masking tape frame on the Glowforge grate so that i could better see my black on black object.
The 100 speed set took about 45 minutes.
The 200 speed set took about 10 minutes
The QR code took about 10 minutes, and it works. It was done at 200/65.
At 100/65 it would take 1-1/2 hours.
Though I might try at 150 speed (GF software says that would take 15 minutes)
Another colleague suggested that I might have to invert the QR code, but I did not need to.
LemonadeDay
On Saturday, we went to the Dimension Mill to participate in their Lemonade Day event. There were booths about the many facets of having a Lemonade Stand : health/sanitation, budgeting, marketing, business pitch, customer service, and registering your stand for the online map. Our stand was about making a popsicle stick model of a stand…as well as blinging it out with stickers, pom poms, pipe cleaners, LED’s. Lights always make things better.
The Mill said they had 135 kids come to the event (elementary to middle school ages).









COSMOS MakerCamp 2023
On May 25th & 26th, the Collaboration of Shoals, Orleans, and Mitchell Schools (COSMOS) got together and held a Maker Camp for 45 students in grades 3-5 (15 from each school), from 9 am to 12 pm. We plotted and planned for weeks. We had 3 sessions each day, for about 45 minutes each. We also had snack time (fruit & pretzels& water).
The sessions that I co-ran were :
“upcycled” creatures : making something from random materials, mostly recyclables
and t-shirt designing with vinyl stickers and fabric paint
So many awesome creations and so many neat designs…I only got pictures of a few.
Other stations included button making, paper pots to start plants, lasering a name tag, mini-worm farm, learning about composting and feeding pigs
It really seemed like the kids were having fun and loved talking about their creations. 45 minutes was not enough time in most cases.
Now we need to talk about what/how to do next summer…