No matter which side of the country, no matter which coast we were visiting, people across Costa Rica all said the same thing: “pura vida”.
Pura vida means “pure life.” It describes Costa Rica’s attachment to nature. Most of the country is forested. Most of the people make their money off of the land, whether it be through agriculture or ecotourism. Costa Rica depends on the care of the planet in order to survive. The phrase was plastered everywhere, from billboards to t-shirts. Costa Ricans would say “pura vida” right alongside their hellos and goodbyes. Many times, I felt like it was ingrained in everyday conversation. The country’s slogan can be a beautiful thing because it emphasizes the need to care for the planet, a national priority.
However, on one interesting, late night, I was reminded to take a little deeper look into that seemingly harmless phrase.
A few of my classmates and I decided to stay up later than most in the cafeteria of one of the biological stations to play a game of Euchre. It wasn’t unusual for me to go to bed later than most, but this night in particular was well-worth the loss of sleep. In the middle of the hand, we were joined by a sweet, old woman named Rosella. She had woken up from sleep in one of the cabins nearby, and came to the cafeteria to try to connect to the wifi. Unfortunately (but not surprisingly), the internet connection was out. However, instead of going back to bed, Rosella decided to sit down and try to learn how we were playing our game.
Rosella was born in Costa Rica, but she had spent most of her life traveling the world. Rosella has a passion for helping others. She’s led many different service projects, most of them targeted towards helping underprivileged teenagers. Rosella’s life story was inspirational to me in many ways. Recently, she’s returned to Costa Rica to start a new program working with teens who have been incarcerated.
Rosella has a quam with her nation’s catch phrase. Pura Vida paints this beautiful picture of a happy, green republic. Rosella thinks this is dangerous. She said she doesn’t like how the slogan greenwashes public perception of real issues going on in Costa Rica. She said it’s not always pura vida, and people need to recognize that. I took Rosella’s warning into consideration when thinking critically about the places we visited.
During the last week, we visited a family-owned coffee farm. The owner, Jacqueline, had just recently taken control of the farm after her father’s passing. The farm was completely organic. The land was filled with forest, coffee plants, and a wide assortment of crops. The rejection of monoculture is good for the environment. Everything in the farm is done by hand, including picking thousands of seeds off of hundreds of coffee plants. All the work stays in the family. Jacqueline explained how she grew up on the farm, and hopes one day to pass it on to her kids. For the most part, this farm seemed to fully embrace Costa Rica’s pura vida.
However, upon closer inspection, it is easy to see that not all aspects are pure. Jacqueline pointed out the problems she has faced as a young, female land owner. She complained that many of the local vendors and sellers don’t take her seriously as a business person. They expect men to be doing her job, and her age doesn’t add to her credibility in their eyes.
Societal expectations are not her only obstacle. The government also fails to provide the funds she needs to remain a sustainable farm. The government offers land owners payments for ecosystem services. Jacqueline tried to cash in on these offers, but she complained the government looks for tiny loopholes to get out of paying. They ask her to make big, costly changes to her land to earn the payments, but often these changes cost much more than what she would gain from the government. To be pure is to be perfect, but it is impossible to be perfect when the government and society is imperfect, just like everywhere else in the world.
Rosella told us about the lack of options for many people in underprivileged communities. She said it is hard to imagine a different way of life when everyone around you follows the same path. She was specifically referencing the children she works with who choose a life of crime. This problem isn’t unique to Costa Rica: we see this everywhere. However, the concept of choosing the familiar path is applicable to a lot of circumstances.
We visited a banana farm which had been owned by the same family for generations. During the tour, we saw how extensive the day to day labor was for many of the family members. Personally, I couldn’t imagine doing the same thing my entire life, especially work that required so much physical grit. Our class helped them chop down a banana herb (bananas grow on the largest herbs on the planet, commonly mistaken for trees). We also planted a few new banana plants. It let us see and experience the process first hand, but the concept of doing that from sunrise to sunset was difficult to grasp. I was happy that after working for a short while we were able to return back to our cabins for lunch and spend the rest of the day experiencing new things. It occurred to me that most of the people in that community had never left. I felt guilty that I had the opportunity to attend a university and choose any career I wanted, anywhere in the world. That is not an option afforded to many people.
However, there are two sides to every coin. Costa Rica’s culture is built around family. This sense of closeness and support is something often lost in many American households. My family is fortunate enough to be considerably close, but we are close because of our family’s values, not because it is a societal expectation. American society pulls families apart, spreading children across the nation when they turn 18, and coercing young adults to divert from their parents’ way of life. There are ups and downs to both cultures. Costa Rica’s pura vida may not be perfect, but it is beautiful. After all, there is a reason Costa Rica is one of the highest ranked countries on the happiness index. Most people here are able to find peace in nature and in their family, making them some of the happiest people on the planet.
There was a PHD student studying at one of the research facilities we stayed at. She was looking into how cultures differ across different towns in Costa Rica. She described how most places embrace the phrase “pura vida,” but people in the capital city, San Jose, rarely say it.
We visited San Jose for a day. It was much different than an American city. If I were to walk the streets of Chicago, Seattle, New York, Indianapolis, or really any major city in the states, I would see tall skyscrapers, trash along the road, and at least a few homeless people camped out every few blocks. In San Jose, most of the buildings were only a few stories tall. The trash welled up in big pot holes that would easily break your ankle if you weren’t careful. There weren’t really any homeless people, which the PHD student attributed to the powerful family ties which keep sons and daughters off the streets. Of course, this is a generality and not the rule. As Rosella would say, people are struggling everywhere, just like in America. The lack of homelessness could also be attributed to the sheer number of police officers who patrolled the streets constantly. Most stores had a security guard, and there was usually a cop standing every few feet. I did not get the chance to see the city at night, as our professors required us all to go home by sunset. This was probably for the best. I have been told that things can get really dangerous at night in San Jose.
People who live in the city are much more exposed to crime and poverty, and far removed from the serenity of nature which embodies the rest of the country. It makes sense to me why they do not embrace “pura vida.” City life is rarely described as pure anywhere in the world.
I learned that pura vida in Costa Rica can mean a lot of different things to different people. I don’t think it is just a form of greenwashing and nothing else. It is true that many ecotourism sites plastered it on advertisements, but the phrase runs much deeper than that. I thought it was amazing how people on every corner of the country exchanged that phrase as a greeting. It felt like it was uniting the nation. The slogan should not be used as a blanket statement to say that life is always good. However, there is value in appreciating nature, which is at the heart of pura vida.
This trip showed me a new way of life, and necessary changes I should make to how I live my own life. This month, I had a healthy balance between work, play, and sleep. I ate balanced meals. I avoided gluttonous consumption. It was easy to feel at peace in Costa Rica when the pressure of real life felt far away, and I could focus on myself and my mental health. Nature had an ever present calming essence. I was able to take each day one at a time. Like I said, living a balanced life was easy. The challenge is bringing this balance back home with me.