During my time in Costa Rica, we stayed at a number of different locations with varying levels of comfort and sustainability. Each taught me something new about Costa Rica and about myself, leading me to experience what I believe was a complex and comprehensive understanding of the country. In this blog, I aim to explore the three different types of locations we experienced: research stations, hotels, and a homestay.
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Research stations, such as La Selva and Monteverde, are where we spent the majority of our time in Costa Rica. The accommodations were simple yet welcoming, with wooden bunk beds, physical keys to get into our rooms, and spiders hiding in the corners. At these research stations, there was a clear emphasis on maintaining biodiversity in the forest with as little human impact as possible. The trails were maintained to a certain extent; the ones at La Selva were paved to prevent soil compaction and trail widening and those at Monteverde were simply dirt. However, I truly felt like I was walking through the heart of the Costa Rican rainforest each time I went out for data collection. Monkeys swung from tree to tree with reckless abandon, birds sang at dawn, and leafcutter ants formed lines that were tens of meters long.
In this way, the research stations were the perfect introduction to the biodiversity that Costa Rica has to offer and that we must make efforts to protect. At Monteverde, we learned about the golden toad, which was endemic to the cloud forests of Monteverde until its extinction, driven by climate change, in 1989. Although I had heard stories about extinct species before, a chill ran through me as Professor Libby told us about the golden toad in the very place it once inhabited. That story, along with the 6 degrees assignment where we examined what our planet could potentially look like in the future, drove home the point of the dangers of climate change, especially for places like Costa Rica that are teeming with biodiversity. That being said, it was extremely inspiring to see researchers from all around the world studying the flora and fauna at La Selva and Monteverde with the hopes of contributing to the understanding of these precious ecosystems and how to save them.
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After the wilderness of La Selva, which felt so far removed from human civilization, Tortuguero and Arenal felt almost too pristine. The comfort of these hotels seemed geared towards the tourists of today, mainly retirees and young families. I am sure that if I had visited Costa Rica with my family, we would have stayed in a similar place, with well-manicured lawns and not a bullet ant in sight, and felt fulfilled with our experience. However, after spending so much time deep in the rain forest, the trees of Tortuguero and Arenal were too quiet, indicating some of the impacts humans have made on these complex ecosystems.
That being said, the importance of ecotourism for both Costa Rica’s rain forests and its economy should not be ignored. Without ecotourism, it is likely that most of the beautiful forests would be cut down to make way for new cities or monoculture crops. Instead, Costa Rica is a model for other countries to emulate regarding boosting the economy without sacrificing the natural environment. It is difficult to maintain a balance of nature and human activity, which was evident at the various locations we visited while at Tortuguero and Arenal. One of my favorite activities we did, swimming at La Fortuna Waterfall, was also the least accessible, as we had to climb 500 steps and scramble over the rocks. The waterfall felt much more natural than Hanging Bridges, where the bird calls were overshadowed by crying children and complaining tourists. Given that we had already experienced so much of the biodiversity Costa Rica had to offer, the visit to Hanging Bridges fell short for me; however, for many individuals, wide paved trails may be their only opportunity to get a glimpse of a sloth or savor a breath of fresh air.
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Another place that stuck out to me was Tortuguero town and beach, where our tour guide Johnny told us how Tortuguero’s relationship with turtles has evolved over time. 70 years ago, the turtle population in Tortuguero was declining due to poaching. However, the arrival of an ecologist named Dr. Archie Carr, as well as an increase in community interest in the natural environment, led to the creation of Tortuguero National Park, which works to preserve both aquatic and terrestrial ecosystems and to share them with as many people as possible. The town itself is somewhat lacking in culture, as the majority of buildings are souvenir shops; however, if you poke around long enough, you might find a bakery with amazing banana bread or a stand that sells handmade jewelry.
Costa Rican culture is an extremely important part of the identity of the country, more so than the luscious rain forests or abundant animals. Although I got glimpses of this culture throughout the trip, especially from the meals at La Selva, I didn’t get a clear understanding of the values of these communities until I stayed with a Costa Rican family while working on a farm in Monteverde. My host family lived simply, sustainably, and happily; they gladly shared their home and meals with Grace and me, their neighbors, and a host of animals (including six dogs and three cats). One of the most rewarding experiences of my trip was cooking a dinner of Aztec soup side by side with two women who were willing to share their culture with me, even as they corrected my horrible cooking techniques in exasperated Spanish.
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At Life Monteverde farm, we talked to one of the founders, Guillermo, who spoke freely about the importance of pura vida and the farm’s goals of sustainability and community-building. Although it is not 100% sustainable, as some pesticides are still being used, Guillermo and the other founders are taking steps to protect the environment and provide delicious food for the local community. One thing that really stuck out to me was the numerous crops that are planted alongside coffee plants, such as bananas, basil, and potatoes. The benefits of these crops are numerous: they promote soil health, decrease the number of pests, and are used to make delicious meals for the workers of the farm, as well as the community. I felt inspired by the farm’s commitment to providing meals for the local community and by promoting education at a large scale.
Overall, I feel extremely grateful to have gotten to experience Costa Rica from several different perspectives. My time at the La Selva and Monteverde research stations opened my eyes to the biodiversity of rain forest ecosystems and the potential impacts of climate change, the Tortuguero and Arenal hotels highlighted the importance of ecotourism and accessibility of natural environments, and the Monteverde farm and homestay shared some of Costa Rica’s culture with me. I will likely be thinking about my experiences in Costa Rica for much longer than the three weeks I spent there, and I can’t wait to share everything I’ve learned with my friends and family!
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