To start off our third week of travelling through the breath-taking country of Costa Rica, we left the sustainable farm of Rancho Margot and headed to La Foresta Nature Reserve. Along the way we stopped in the countryside to admire the wind turbines and have a class discussion over the importance of renewable energy and sources of electricity in a climate where rising temperatures are a very important challenge. Costa Rica uses solar, wind, hydroelectric, biofuels, and a very small amount of coal to power the country, compared to the United States where an immense amount of coal, oil, natural gas, nuclear power, biofuels, and waste are the main sectors. One of the most scenic places we have stopped was at a macadamia inspired café. The frozen macadamia coffee was so refreshing, and we could glimpse the wind turbines while standing on the outdoor patio. We were also able to experience a local eating scene when we made a stop for lunch at a spot near the highway. I was very excited to see the differences between places designed for international tourists compared to local Costa Rican areas that allowed us to immerse ourselves in the culture and gain familiarity with paying in colones and speaking Spanish. Once we finally arrived at La Foresta we were greeted with a delicious dinner provided by the amazing staff. After sleeping in cabins in the rainforest we were very pleased to have a night or two in beds that felt like pillows with functioning air conditioning units. These nights definitely made me feel very grateful for being able to experience such drastically different living conditions around Costa Rica and helped me appreciate my home in Indiana.
The next morning, we drove through Quepos to a marina where we boarded a catamaran. Our guide was very charismatic and was very sweet even when we learned we had to turn the catamaran back to shore because the waves were too dangerous, and the wind was too strong. We enjoyed the ride while it lasted but headed back to La Foresta for the day. I spent my free morning swimming laps in the pool and relaxing outside until the rain started. We then left as a full crew to return to Quepos and each complete a COVID-19 antigen test that I felt like touched my brain at one point. While we waited for our results, I sat by the seaside breeze with a few classmates. On our drive back to La Foresta the rain started to pick up and by the time we finished dinner the thunderstorm was the loudest thing I have ever heard. The thunder crackled so violently that I could literally feel it in bones. The lighting had a purple hue and I felt so tiny compared to the massive storm right on top of us. The employees around us said they have never experienced a storm of that magnitude before and unfortunately the dining room and some of the guest rooms flooded from the rain.
The following morning, we had an early start after breakfast as we headed to the Osa Peninsula. For lunch we stopped at a beautiful seafood restaurant that was completely open and offered us a view of the ocean with mountains covered in foliage in the distant background. It truly looked like a painting, as there were a handful of small sailboats spread around the water. Once we finally arrived at Osa Biological Station we were met with a detailed presentation from the research staff over the history of the site, what conservation programs are offered, and the sustainable efforts made to keep the biodiversity alive in the region and among local communities. Before dinner, we took a hike through the creek and muddy trails down to a beach along the Pacific coast just in time for sunset. Unlike most other beaches I have been to, we are restricted from going into the waves, and for good reason. The rip current is extremely strong and the power from the waves is intense. An interesting addition to the sleeping arrangements were mosquito nets. At first, I was wary but then I ended up loving sleeping with the nets as they kept out all the insects from the open wall concept.
Due to our group being so large, our mealtimes were pushed back so we were able to sleep in for the first time. However, I have been unable to sleep late so instead I was able to lay in bed and listen to the magnified sounds from the forest surrounding us. This was the first location that I felt like we were plucked and dropped straight into a scene from Jurassic Park. Our drive here showed me how remote our location was and how difficult it is to travel this deep into the rainforest. The volume of which we woke up to howler monkeys, cawing of birds, and reverberating noises of insects was something that I have never experienced to that level yet anywhere in Costa Rica. Although we were fed meat, most of the meals are vegetarian and locally sourced from their onsite farm. The day consisted of a sea turtle conservation lecture where we were taught that four out of the seven total sea turtle populations are found at Piro Beach. Only 1 out of 10,000 hatchlings make it to adulthood and the biggest threats to sea turtle populations are predation and poaching. Our group also helped out the volunteers with netting the hatchery ceiling and walls to help keep out animals and prevent erosion from waves. On our way to dinner, I was able to enjoy watching a troop of spider monkeys and capuchin’s share a fruit source, which is an exceptionally rare event, on a palm behind our sleeping quarters.
After breakfast the next morning, my research partner and I focused our time on interviews, transcribing the results, and preparing our spreadsheets for data analysis. After finishing up our work for the day a small group of us took a hike back through the creek and the even muddier trail to the beach. While there we went on a hunt for the lagoon where we climbed some fallen palm trees and drank from fallen coconuts. After a successful venture back to the site, I joined in another afternoon soccer game where we all ended up being covered in mud, cuts, bruises, and sweat. I had a great time, and these games will definitely be some of the most memorable bonding experiences between us all. After dinner we had our usual late lectures where we discussed climate change, our individual species presentations, and assigned work to complete.
Our final morning at Osa was filled with rain and veggie omelets. Saying some quick goodbyes, we had a long ride through the forest to make it back to the nearest town. From there we stopped in a supermarket and headed to Estacion Biologica Las Cruces. We arrived just in time for lunch and once again, one of the best Costa Rican meals I have had. Right after lunch we had the most thought-provoking, influential, and enlightening discussions I have ever had the privilege of being a part of. We met with members of the Ngäbe indigenous tribe located in regions across Costa Rica and into Panama. With the help of a translator between Spanish and English we were able to ask them questions about their culture, language, and challenges while in return, they were curious about why we were in Costa Rica and what type of research we are conducting through our stay. I felt so many different emotions during this discussion and it helped me realize the importance of social science and having the ability to connect with people of the community and how much I love that aspect. It was very disheartening to hear that they feel as though they are used as puppets by the government and are not given rights or the resources necessary to support the continuation of their heritage and traditions. Conservation is something that the Ngäbe have integrated into their way of life and slowly indigenous tribes around Central America are losing touch with their practices. They are one of the eight indigenous tribes still left in Costa Rica out of twenty-six. The others have all already gone extinct, as there is not much outside help to support them. We were taught a few simple phrases in their native tongue, and it was amazing to see that even though this tribe faces so much discrimination and resistance, they remained excited to teach us and invite us to stay with their community for research, social, or volunteering purposes in the future.
I have loved everywhere that our crew has stayed, but so far, Las Cruces has gone above and beyond all of our expectations. Not only is the coffee phenomenal, but we have a common area to hang out, not to mention with air conditioning and Wi-Fi as well. On top of our research and other daily tasks we were given portions of Six Degrees by Mark Lynas to read and discuss with the class. My group’s section revolved around what would happen to Earth and the climate if we reached a six degree increase in average global temperature. In short, a signature for mass extinction and apocalyptic consequences, which sparked some very gruesome thoughts but also made me wonder how long we as a species have on this Earth. Especially when considering how horribly we treat the planet now, will our conditions get worse or will we as a species come together and figure out a way to mitigate the effects of climate change?
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