The second week of my Costa Rican journey was just as exciting, adventurous, and knowledgeable as the first. These weeks have been flying by like a blur, but I’ve been trying to take it all in moment by moment. Everything is so beautiful and all that I have experienced so far including the places I’ve seen and the people I’ve met have been so enriching and life-changing, it is hard to not get overwhelmed. I’ve been reminding myself to soak in all that I can so that I can take these experiences and feelings with me wherever I go next in the world. I’m hoping to make a difference with all that I’ve learned.
The first week I had learned so much about the biodiversity and natural history of Costa Rica. I had spent time acquainting myself with new plant and animal species and examining their ecological interactions. Though these observations continued into the second week at La Selva, this past week was also a transition into exploring and observing ecotourism.
We began the week with a tour of an organic pineapple farm as an introduction into ecotourism. Upon arrival, we enjoyed some delicious pineapple juice straight from the source. Danny, our tour guide accompanied by the silent comedian Elmer, told us about the world of piñas – pineapples. At the pineapple farm, they plant all of the plants by hand. They take part of the mother plant and plant the baby plant which is the crown. Piñas naturally sexually reproduce every 1-4 years, and they only do this under stress. So to induce stress in order to have control over their product, the farmers will spray artificial ethylene gas. It is for this reason that the pineapple farm is considered “100% certified organic” and not “100% organic”. They do make use of certain ecological interactions in the production of pineapples. For example, they use ladybugs as natural biocontrol for insect pests and snakes for control of rats. To finish the tour, Danny used his machete “Justin” to chop up some really sweet and juicy pineapple for us to try. Later, we tried their famous piña coladas. I’m sure it was 5 o’clock somewhere. Learning about the pineapple farm was a way for us to dip our toes into the idea of ecotourism.
The next day, we visited the Cultural Banana Farm. The Cultural Banana Farm was different from the pineapple farm in that it was a more intimate setting with it being family owned. I believe Franita was in charge of the farm and she was the one who gave us our tour. She started with a discussion on the natural history of bananas and plantains in Costa Rica. In the 1840s, coffee became an exported crop from Costa Rica so a railway was built from San Jose to Limón. However, coffee could only be harvested once a year; they needed a new crop to maintain the railway and feed the railway workers. From that came the rise of the banana in Costa Rica. The government would pay the workers in land and they would grow bananas on that land. Flash forward to today, Costa Rica is third in banana exports. Franita told us that her grandmother gave her the land for the farm. Franita does not export bananas or plantains unlike the huge monoculture farms surrounding her. Instead, she sells locally on a small scale and she grows her crops in an organic and sustainable way. She does not use insecticides to protect the bees and she does not cover the bunches in plastic unlike the monoculture farms. I felt like this was a more rewarding ecotourism experience because we connected more intimately with the family who puts their livelihoods and families on the line for their small-scale farm. Their children were seen playing along the farm and the aunts and grandmother were cooking us delicious homemade banana and plantain treats. I didn’t feel like a tourist at the banana farm. I felt like I was supporting my own neighbor. I know ecotourism is a way to support the local community, but this time I felt like I was doing more for this family and that it was an impactful experience for both us and the family. I not only learned about their crop but I learned about their personal lives and the family was able to benefit by giving us an opportunity to be taught by them.
The next day, we went on a boat to visit the town of Tortuguero along the Caribbean coast. We took a jungle cruise through the river and into a lagoon where we saw a variety of land and water species including lizards, cayman, crocodiles, birds, and monkeys. When we docked the boat at Tortuguero, I was overwhelmed by the colors and vivid atmosphere. This little seaside town was all that I had imagined and more. I felt an overwhelming sense of happiness and adventure. We all ran straight to the beach and could not believe that we had our feet in Costa Rican sand, black from volcanic ash, with the jungle right behind us. I was extremely excited about the ocean but even more excited about finally visiting town. It was a street filled with colorful homes, shops, restaurants, and beachside bars. There was even an elementary school snug between the street and the coast so that students could run straight onto the beach and visitors would pass through the playground where they would be greeted by the welcoming smiles and waves of the local children. I did feel like a tourist here but I felt so welcomed by the community, especially the children and business owners, that I didn’t feel like I was intruding on anything. I felt like they wanted to share their lifestyle with us and made it a point to share their environmentally friendly values with us. They did this via signs about waste and turtle conservation, artwork showing the loveliness of the ocean, and recycling opportunities all over the town. It was amazing to be a part of the pura vida lifestyle for just a moment.
On Thursday, we visited Tirimbina for chocolate and bats! Tirimbina was definitely a more touristy place but still lovely. We learned all about the history of the cacao bean and its evolution into the chocolate we know and love today. The tour guides were funny and informative and they made us several yummy chocolate creations. However, I didn’t feel like I was gaining a new perspective about Costa Rica or learning much about the people and culture. Later, we learned about the bats of Costa Rica in a presentation that informed us about the myths surrounding bats, their ecological services, their anatomy, adaptations, and life history traits. They had caught several bats in a mist net to give us a closer look at the local bats. The bats were put in bags and carefully taken out by the guide who held them out for us. I enjoyed being able to see these wonderful creatures up close and get a closer look at all the things that make them special. However, some people were a little disturbed by the way they were handled. I do understand that feeling because it’s hard to look at an animal who is scared and confused and at the mercy of a human being. I felt like the bats were okay because they were teaching us about them so that we can be more aware of and make conscious decisions toward their conservation. The bats were released after several minutes and in the same manner I had done many times while researching birds in the past. I enjoyed the experience of a different type of ecotourism and appreciated the different perspectives of everyone around me. Tirimbina was the last of our excursions while staying at La Selva. I spent the last night at La Selva gawking at the stars from the suspension bridge, awed by the visibility of the Milky Way, the stillness of the forest around me, and the knowledge of the interconnectedness amongst all living things on this earth.
The next day, we traveled from La Selva to Rancho Margot. On the way there we stopped at one of the most touristy tourist attractions there is, but probably one of my favorite activities we have done thus far: the Baldi Hot Springs. The Baldi Hot Springs is a collection of natural pools heated by the nearby Volcano Arenal. As soon as we walked in all of us were blown away by how fancy and amazing everything was. We let ourselves give in to the luxuriousness of it all. We swam back and forth in 109 degree pools, drank fancy drinks in poolside bars, and absorbed the heat in the caves of naturally heated saunas. It was hard to tear us away from such an experience that offered a reprieve from normal life and gave us time to relax feeling as if we are different people having lived different lavish lives. Nevertheless, we drove away from Baldi Hot Springs and onto Rancho Margot.
Rancho Margot is THE destination for any ecotourist. It is off-the-grid living on a working sustainable farm in the middle of the Costa Rican rainforest. It has horseback riding, kayaking, fishing, hiking, yoga, cows, pigs, chickens, vegetable and medicinal gardens, soap-making, spas, swimming, and so much more. It is hard to describe Rancho Margot because it seemed like a place that exists only in fairy tales or dreams. It offers a way to reconnect with nature at a pure and sustainable level. I felt this instant connection to nature especially in the showers where I was greeted by three different species of large bugs. The people at the ranch were super friendly and eager to share their vision with others. After exploring the Mistico hanging bridges where we looked over volcano views, 40 meter drops, and tarantulas, we went on a farm tour at the ranch. There, we learned about what makes the farm special. They recycle the water, cool the buildings with living roofs full of plants, raise their own chickens and meat, grow their own fruits, vegetables, and medicine, power their farm using methane recycled from the animal waste, and create soil from a compost pile. We met with Don Juan, the owner of the ranch, who seemed to have an idea for the future. He doesn’t know if his ranch is a model for large scale sustainability, but it does serve as a model for all that you can do with a piece of land – how you can develop it into something meaningful.
With my time at Rancho Margot added to my resume of ecotourism, I can say that I have a well-rounded experience of what it’s like to be an ecotourist here in Costa Rica. I have been trying to analyze these experiences with a critical eye and consider the negative impacts and benefits of being an ecotourist. We are approaching these activities with a conscientious attitude, delving in local knowledge, and supporting green initiatives. But we are not going everywhere without leaving a mark. I still feel ignorant among the locals who rely on ecotourism to survive and I still feel a sense of guilt for being that ignorant American who should be taught this knowledge and tended to as if it is owed to me. I wish it was not this way and I was able to integrate more into the culture without feeling like such a burden. Nevertheless, it is good that I recognize these feelings so that I can approach my travels differently in the future. Maybe it just takes time, respect, and an open heart.
A wonderful perspective, great article!